| Soil from a worm bin
starts as manure (cow, horse, pig, llama, rabbit, goat...), leaves,
shredded newspaper, grass clippings, hair, coffee grounds, vegetable
peels, tea bags, any food waste - virtually anything that has lived and
died.
Provide proper moisture levels and control the temperature before you
add your worms.
- too wet the worms will die
- too dry the worms will die
- too hot the worms will die
- too cold the worms will die
| Keep the worms alive and they will eat, poop, and make
babies all day and all night. Do worms sleep? I
don't think so. Their job is to replenish the earth with
bacteria and fungi that help complete the soil food web. |
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Click to see the
soil food web. |
This soil from the worm bin also has naturally formed aggregate that
does not compact and allows for the free flow of oxygen and water to the
roots of plants and the life in the soil. It also contains bits of
organic matter that will continue to help feed the life in the soil.
Another way to add beneficial life to the soil or fight disease and
pests on plant surfaces is to use Actively Aerated Compost Tea as a soil
drench or foliar spray.
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Most important in a homemade
compost tea brewer is that there are no dead spaces where the
air does not circulate. Air is essential for the growth of
beneficial microorganisms and to discourage growth of toxic
microorganisms. |
Good circulation of air and water around
your compost is also necessary for extracting the beneficial
microorganisms that are in the compost. Using a high
quality compost will ensure a wide variety of beneficial life in
your compost tea. |
| Visit
Pittsburgh Permaculture for a step by step demonstration of
how to build and brew with this homemade brewer. |
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Our food supply is becoming more and more questionable.
Even when the label says organic it should be scrutinized carefully.
The only way you can be sure what is really in your food is if you grow
it yourself, organically!
Compost from a worm bin, or vermicompost, is the very
best soil amendment you can use to help build your soil to grow bigger,
more nutritious food without having to use chemicals, pesticides and
herbicides.
This resource,
Food4Wealth, will help anyone successfully garden organically
whether you are a novice beginner or an experienced gardener.
You will find step-by-step instruction with clear
illustrations to help you get started. It is also provided as an
Audiobook.
There are 14 video tutorials with over 60 minutes of hands
on instruction showing exactly what to do to have a successful organic
garden on any scale. The step-by-step project plan will help
guide you through the whole process of how to start producing organic food.
Implementing this plan with your vermicomposting system will virtually
guarantee your success in the organic garden and enhance your understanding of the ecosystem and how it works to sustain life on
earth.
A worm bin will help turn your garden waste into
beneficial soil amendment with more beneficial soil life than material
left to decompose on the ground. Every aspect of the organic
garden and worm bin composting work hand in hand to help create that
perfect, healthy ecosystem that will grow abundant food.
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Umbelliferous
plants like fennel, dill, and anise, provide valuable
nectar for beneficial insects. While nectar is an
important food source for beneficial insects having a few soft
bodied pests around to snack on is also desirable. In
other words, the goal is not to wipe out the pest population but
to keep a balance in which the beneficials rule. |
Tansy is a great companion
plant to many vegetables you grow in your garden, as well as
concentrating potassium in the soil making it an excellent herb
by the compost heap. It deters many non-nectar eating
insects such as Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, and
squash bugs yet is particularly attractive to honeybees. |
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Worm castings in case
you didn't know is simply worm poop.
As you add material to your compost bin, whether it is a worm bin or
a conventional bin, there are bacteria and fungi that go to work
decomposing that material. In order for this microscopic life to
feed it must have moisture and oxygen.
Too much moisture and not enough oxygen and the microscopic life that
grows and feeds is toxic, to your worms and to anything else it touches.
This toxic condition is easily recognizable by it's smell or should I
say "stink".
If your bin is healthy the worm population will thrive and increase
at an amazing rate. The bacteria and fungi multiply as the waste
is consumed and the worms eat the bacteria and fungi.
As the material which the worm consumes works it's way through the
worms gut the microbial life explodes and the resulting casting is rich
with this beneficial life. It is said that the casting has more
bacteria and fungi than the in the worm bin and worm gut combined.
One instance when the sum of both parts is greater than the sum of both
parts. Go figure. It's nature's way.
Worm poop is one manure that will not burn when applied directly to
plants. It also does not go by the adage that more is better.
I find the best use for my sifted castings is for my seed starting
mix. It's fine texture and rich microbial life is perfect for
coaxing the seedling from the seed. Or for blending my own organic
fertilizer.
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| Click to see the fabulous
colors and textures of these greens I grow from organic seed.
The unique blend of salad mix you can grow from your own seed
leaves you with a never boring selection of greens for salads,
sandwiches, stir fry, and soups. |
Tomatoes in particular love castings.
My custom blend of organic fertilizer contains worm castings,
organic alfalfa meal, feather meal, organic cotton seed meal,
bat guano, kelp meal and crushed organic egg shell.
See specific details on the benefits of these special
ingredients on my sister site. |
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