VEGGIE WASTES   ↓	CANS    ↓	PLASTIC BOTTLES   ↓	UNTREATED PAPER ↓	YUCKY TRASH   ↓
WORM  FOOD			WORM  FOOD

As you can see the implementing of a vermicomposting project will require vision and the desire to make a real difference from the very beginning.  You will need the ability to look at old problems in a new way and see the solution as a process that has a beginning and an end.  You will first have to determine what your specific vermicomposting needs are.  Who will be responsible for the project? Who will do what needs to be done and where can you do it?  What special equipment and or technologies will you need to proceed and be successful?  Where will you get the funds to support the project?  How will you keep records and who will decide what records need to be kept?  What will you do with the product produced, and who will benefit from them?  What obstacles do you have in your way and how will you deal with them? 

Sorting of the waste is only the beginning, but this process will help you determine the scope of the project and will get you well on your way to answering all the other questions that will come up.

 

Step 1:  Conduct a school-wide waste audit

In order to determine the size of your vermicomposting project you must first determine the volume of food waste that needs to be handled by your system.  Ideally, the students will handle this with the support of staff, faculty, and parents.  Everyone needs to be involved, with the students managing the entire project.

The cafeteria is the obvious producer of waste on a large scale, and two containers for pre-consumer food waste should be stationed in the kitchen for staff to use.  But if you look closely there are many other areas where the audit can be effective as well.  Integration into the daily activities of the students is essential to success.

Set up two food waste containers with the trash and recycling containers in the cafeteria.  These containers will hold post-consumer food wastes.  One will be for vegetable, grain, and fruit waste - this includes all vegetable peelings, fruit rinds and cores, egg shells, breads, pizza crust, coffee grounds, pancakes, noodles, beans, melons, and well you get the idea.  The second one will be for meat waste and bones, and dairy products like milk and cheese, dressings, and fats.

Developing a picture-clue bulletin board which will help in identifying the various recyclables is a very good idea.  Labeling the containers will cut down on confusion as to where each item goes.

After lunch the food waste, both pre-consumer and post-consumer, are weighed by the students and recorded.  After a month of this process you will have enough information to determine on average how much waste is produced each day.  The amount of food waste to be recycled per day will determine the size of your vermiculture project. 

The recycling of non-compostable materials is a separate project that could be undertaken at the same time as the vermicomposting project.  All of these items have an impact on our landfills.

 

Step 2:  Building an environment

On earth all living things have a specific environment which directly relates to their survival.  The housing for worms can vary greatly depending on the materials available and the basic requirements of the persons providing for the worms.  However, the thing that does not change is the conditions the worms require in order to survive and thrive.

When planning your bins remember to consider whether the material is going to be detrimental to the worms or other organisms in the composting culture.  Wood that has been pressure-treated with preservatives will not only be bad for your worms but the substances will leach into your compost.  Then if you use your compost on your vegetable garden those same toxins will find their way to your dinner table. 

Make sure that your bins are not too deep.  Air is a very important ingredient for healthy compost.  You also want to be able to work the bins with relative ease, and the worms are top feeders. 

How big your bins are and how many you have will depend largely on your school's food waste audit.  The recommended amount of worms is 1lb per square foot.  Typically, you will need one square foot of space to bury one pound of food per day per 2lbs of worms.

A good size for a worm bin is 4' x 8' and one foot to eighteen inches deep.  By purchasing 3 boards which are 2" thick and 8' long by however deep you want to make your beds you will be able to build the4 sides of the worm beds .  Use 2 - 4' x 8' 5/8" exterior grade plywood for the top and bottom of the bin.  Hinged lids are optional but do make it easier to handle the opening and closing of the bin.  The corners of the bins get held together with 4 evenly spaced 16D nails.  Reinforce the corners with steel-reinforcement.  Moisture and weight are both factors that will cause stress on your corners and warping of the wood.  Screwing in steel corner braces in the corners will strengthen the bin and help it last longer.

The bottom of the bin will need holes for drainage of excess moisture.  Drill 5 rows down the length, of 4 holes each across the width of the bin.  Place the finished bin up on supports to allow for air circulation and drainage.  Cinder blocks are good for this.  Make sure and support the corners and the middle of the bin.  The middle should be supported along the out side of the bin and in the center. 

With what the school will save in waste disposal these bins will more than pay for themselves.

   Step 3:  Aspects of a successful mid-scale vermicomposting project

One of the most important aspects of a healthy worm bin is a good supply of oxygen.  A system that is anaerobic (without oxygen) is toxic.  It will kill your worms and all the good bacteria that are working on decomposing the material in your bins.  And it will smell very bad.  A properly maintained vermicomposting system will not smell.

Compaction will also decrease the supply of oxygen in the bin.  Shallow bins and frequent turning help to keep oxygen incorporated through-out the bedding material.  Natural compaction occurs with the worms working the material and converting it to castings. 

Adequate moisture is necessary for the worms to remain healthy and is also a requirement for the other decomposers in the vermicomposting system.  Since the regular turning to incorporate oxygen into the bedding also encourages evaporation of the moisture present, additional moisture needs to be added to keep the moisture level adequate.  This can be a tricky aspect of the system.  However, remember that the worms like to feed at the top of the bin and that gravity will naturally pull the water down into the bin.  Ideally, when you water the bin it's the top you want wet, not the bottom - so apply less water more often.

The Organic Garden

Gardening is the perfect companion activity to vermicomposting in the school environment.  Gardening brings the gardener closer to the earth and raises sensitivity to the environment.

There are the lessons of chemistry and botany, photosynthesis, micro-organisms, ecosystems and the list could go on and on.  The science of farming, the business of farming, the impact farming has on the soil, different methods that impact the soil differently.  The biological make-up of the worm casting and how soil dwellers benefit the structure of the soil. 

Gardening is a fascinating activity that goes hand in hand with vermicomposting if the gardening is done organically.  Chemicals kill the life in the soil and will kill the life in the worm castings.

Organic gardening means no chemicals, pesticides, or herbicides.  And in the school environment as well as in the home garden organic gardening can be done easily, efficiently and in support of the natural order of things.