A Worm Farm

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Testimonials:

  • Hi Christy,
     
    I live in a small town in the Western Australian Goldfields, and I would just like to say you would have the best, most informative videos on the web.
     
    Regards,
    Brent W.

     

  • Hi Christy,

    Thank you for making the nice videos about worms I learn a lot from you.

    Greetings

    Tom

    The Netherlands


     

  • Hi Christy,

    First I want to thank you for a great site. I really enjoyed your
    e-course as well. Was able to get a lot of helpful information.
    Particularly the videos. I have only been vermicomposting since Sept.
    And am just about ready to harvest my first batch of castings. Recently joined vermicomposters.com Anyway just added some photos of my worm farm to share. So thanks again. Will continue to enjoy your site.

    Troy B.

     

  • Thank you so much for posting videos about worm bins. Your videos are great and I've learned a lot from them.

    Karen


     

  • Christy,

    Thanks I hope that you don't mind but I belong to The Garden Forums website and there are folks on there that have not heard of you and your love of worms. I told them that I decided to buy from you because of a video I seen of you harvesting worms by hand.

    Chris M.
     

  • Christy,

    Did I tell you the worms arrived in good shape and seem to be happy eating my kitchen scraps?

    Jo Ann N.

     

  • Hello Christy,

    I received the Worm Factory yesterday on time and in good shape.

    I am looking forward to transferring my “herd” from my single-storey bin to the new multi-level one.

    Thank you for the quick service and excellent videos on the web.

    Roy R
    .

     

  • Factory is all set up - so once you have a batch acclimated and ready I am ready for them. Your videos are warm and wonderful, full of worm love.

          John B

  • My Lanzones     (Lansium domesticum) that has been sitting on my frontyard without any signs of fruiting for many years, all of a sudden fruited this year after just 2 or 3 months on vermitea and vermicast.

    BEN
     

  • Christy,
    I love your videos and I've learned a lot from watching.

    Steve
     

  • Hi Christy, I wanted to tell you how much I enjoyed your pod casts. I just found them by accident. I been trying to figure this worm thing out for awhile. You did a good job of doing that. Also, your pod casts were so friendly. I sort of felt like I was sitting across the table from you.

    I can't wait to get the worm tower and get started.  Keep up the good work Christy! your a special person!

    Tom P
     

  • Hi Christy.

    The worms arrived today! I even saw one of the babies when I was looking in my bin. I couldn't believe how tiny it was. :)

    I live in an apartment building so the manager brought the package to my air conditioned apartment so they were just fine. Although I wonder what she thought of this box labeled "LIVE WORMS". :)

    Thanks again!
      Carla

     

  • Hi Christy,

    Just to let you know I received the 2 lbs. of red worms Thursday, June 5th, 2008. I received them in very good condition and am very happy with them. I'm using horse manure and they seem to be comfortable with that. I don't know how long it will take for the castings to appear, or when to harvest as of yet, but I'm sure that as I keep a close eye on things I will find out. Thank you very much for such a wonderful product.

    Best Regards,

    Dave
     

  • Received worms yesterday and they’re real healthy.

    Thanks,
    Michael

     

  • My worms arrived today and they are in good condition.

    Thank you,
    Amy

     

  • Yes, they arrived on Friday and they're great. Moving around and eating our veggie and fruit scraps already.

    Thank you!
    Liz
     

  • Christy,

    I did receive the worms today and did not see any that were not alive. I have transferred them to a 10 gallon tub that I modified with holes, according to the directions. They are all moving and seem to be "happy".

    Thank you,
    Cathy
     

  • The worms arrived alive and well, and are fast finding a new home.

    Jack
     

  • Hi Christy.

    Worms safely arrived yesterday P.M. While I've no experience or much knowledge about worms, I'd say they were fat and happy. They've been enthroned in nice new digs...with much to feast on to welcome their arrival.

    Thanks Again. Larry D
     

  • Hi Christy,
    Just wanted to let you know that we received our worms and they all looked fat and happy .....even the lil' babies!!

    Thanks again!
    Sandra G



     

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1x2x3 Wooden Worm Bin

The Plastic Tote Worm Bin

Mini-Worm Bin

inside_123_bin 123_wood_worm_bin bottom_wood_worm_bin hinged_lid_wood_worm_bin

                Build Your Own                 
Wooden Worm Bin

Materials:
  • 1 sheet of 1/2" plywood
  • 1 14" utility 2 x 4
  • 1 16' utility 2 x 4
  • 1 lb. 4d galvanized nails
  • 1/4 lb. 16d galvanized nails
  • 2 3" door hinges
Tools:

Tape measure, skill saw or rip hand saw, hammer, saw horses, long straight edge or chalk snap line, screw driver, chisel, wood glue and drill with 1/2" bit.

USE EYE AND EAR PROTECTION

Measure and cut plywood as indicated in drawing. To make the base, cut the 14' 2 x 4 into five pieces: two 48" and three 20" long. The remaining 12" piece will be used to make the sides. Nail the 2 x 4s together on edge with 16d nails at each joint as illustrated in the base frame diagram. Nail the plywood base piece onto the 2 x 4 frame using the 4d nails.

To build the box, cut three 12" pieces from 16' 2 x 4. Place a one-foot 2 x 4 under the end of each side panel so that the 2 x 4 is flush with the top and side edges of the plywood and nail the boards in place. Nail the side pieces onto the base frame.

To complete the box, nail the ends onto the base and sides. To reinforce the box, place a nail at least every 3 inches wherever plywood and 2 x 4s meet. Drill twelve 1/2" holes through the bottom of the box for drainage.  Drill two levels of 1/2" holes all around the sides as illustrated in the pictures above.

To build the lid, cut the remainder of the 16' 2 x 4 into two 51" lengths and two 27" pieces. Cut lap joints in the corners, then glue and nail the frame together. Center the plywood onto the 2 x 4 frame and nail with 4d nails. Lay the top on the ground with the plywood side touching ground. Attach hinges to the top and back using short screws on the top and the long screw on the back. Position hinges so the screws go through plywood to 2 x 4s.

Coating the inside with paraffin will help preserve the wood from the moisture necessary for your worms to thrive.  To do that successfully you will need to heat the paraffin to the point where it sizzles when you apply it to the wood.

Treat the outside with clear polyurethane, varnish, or paint to protect it from weathering.


The Plastic Tote Worm Bin:

A worm bin can be made out of any sturdy container that is preferably no more than 18 inches deep.  The worms are a top feeder and anything deeper will only contribute to a toxic condition at the lower levels of your worm bin that will not only affect the health of your worms but will affect the quality of your finished product. 

 



The worm bin needs to be able to accommodate you drilling holes in the sides for allowing air into the bedding and in the bottom for the release of excess moisture.

It is also good if the container has some kind of lid to keep out unwanted light (the worms like it dark) and to help keep the top layer of material moist.

You will need something to set the worm bin on to collect the excess moisture that drips from the bottom of the bin.

Here is a picture of one of the ways I handle this problem:

worm bin on top of contain to catch leachate

This helps keep the bottom of the worm bin open to fresh air flow and gives you visual access to your lechate.  If you want you could even put a spout in the container catching the liquid.

Tools and supplies needed to build your worm bin:
  • THE PLASTIC SMALL IN HOME WORM BIN  I USE FOR 1-2 PEOPLE - 

   twelve gallon tote for a small worm bin    small worm bin one foot deep    the 12 gallon worm bin   prop the lid on the worm bin


I use a 12 gallon tote with rigid sides and an attached, interlocking lid.  This particular tote was purchased on sale after the Christmas season for less than $7.00.  It is only 1 ft. deep, and is easy to transport even when it is full of bedding and worms.  The attached lid is especially nice if space is an issue and is able to be propped open on itself if you need to get additional air circulation if your system starts heating up.  This is a good size for someone who is interested in transporting their bin for classes.
 

  • TOOLS I USE TO BUILD MY BINS -

 vents for worm bin   drill used to build worm bin   drill bit to drill holes for worm bin 
 small hammer to tap vents into worm bin   tin snips to cut vents for bottom of worm bin   pliers to help pull through vents for worm bin

  • THE VENTS I USE -

vents for worm bin   vents for worm bin   vents for worm bin

You will need to find vents for your worm bin.  I use 1-3/4" vents.  Air is one of the most important aspects of a healthy bin, so don't skimp on size here to save a few bucks.  You can find a variety of vents like these at a store that caters to contractors.  There are plastic ones that are a little more expensive.  Save money by buying a less expensive vent, just don't try to save money by trying to not use a vent or by buying a smaller vent.  The smallest I would go with is 1".  I have also used screen buy cutting a piece of hardware cloth, or you can use screen from an old window screen, and hot glue them over the hole.  I would glue them over the outside to avoid catching the screen when you work your worm bin.  This method is not as attractive and will not last as long as a metal or plastic vent, but works just the same.  The picture above shown sitting atop a tub to catch the leachate is a worm bin I built hot gluing screen over 1" holes.  With the smaller holes I drill more holes per side, top, and bottom than I do if I use the bigger vents.  With the bigger vents you will need a minimum of 12 vents - 2 on each side, one on each end, two in the top (one per each 1/2 lid), and two in the bottom.  The bottom vents will need to have the sides cut with the tin snips in order to bend the sides down to allow the excess moisture to drain out.  If you did not do this there would be a build-up of liquid in the bottom which would leave the bedding soggy and could create a toxic condition in the bottom layer of your worm bin.

  • THE FINISHED WORM BIN -

 finished 12 gallon worm bin        1 - 2 person worm bin

The vents should be placed towards the bottom of the worm bin as this is where the air will be needed once you get the worm bin full of working material and worms.

 

By clicking on any of the pictures above
you can see an enlarged photo and be able to see more detail.



Mini-Worm Bins

Generally speaking, the larger the bin the more forgiving the system is.  But if you want to go small, then here are some samples of some small bins I use to hold my worms after harvest until I ship.  Moving clockwise, the gray one in upper left hand corner of the picture is a small dish tub.  The pink tub next to it is one of those tubs you get when you stay in the hospital.  The round bin is a tortilla warmer container with a lid pictured next.  Holes are drilled in the lid for air.  This small bin can hold 1/2 lb of worms. READ MORE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Worm Bin Composting
E-course

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10 lessons To create your own high quality, organic soil amendment...

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A Journey in Video

Plans are in the works for a series of videos that would take you from start to finish (so to speak) of how to have your own worm bin composting project.  Once the set-up process was complete the series will continue with the maintenance of the bin including feeding and harvesting worms and castings.

If you would like to be notified of the release of these videos please fill out the form below.  As always your information is safe with me.

 


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"Teaming With Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web"

Sometimes scientists can talk over the layman's head and not even realize that the message is not being conveyed.  This book is written in a very understandable language, that even a simple worm farmer like myself could understand and relate to.  A must read for anyone who wants to learn more about the life producing your food.

Smart gardeners understand that soil is alive and what is in the soil is what supports plant life.  Healthy soil is exploding with life - beyond the worms and insects we can see with the naked eye - there are a multitude of bacteria, fungi, and other microbial forms of life vital to the soil food web that sustains healthy plant life.  Resorting to chemicals destroys this delicate balance and results in an unhealthy situation for the soil, the plants, and the environment.  You can't destroy this balance and not have an affect on the people, the children, family and friends.  As gardeners, farmers, and inhabitants of the Earth we have an obligation to the next generation to leave behind a healthy soil.  Venture beyond your current understanding that good soil grows healthy plants and understand why...This book available now from Amazon.com by clicking on the buy link.

 

 

VermiCulture Northwest
6351 N Davenport St
Dalton Gardens, ID 83815
(541) 678-7005  (new phone number)

email me:  Christy@vermiculturenorthwest.com

 Christy Ruffner © VermiCulture Northwest 1997-2008