I live in a small town in
the Western Australian Goldfields, and I would just like to say you
would have the best, most informative videos on the web.
Regards,
Brent W.
Hi Christy,
Thank you for making the nice videos about worms I learn a lot from you.
Greetings
Tom
The Netherlands
Hi Christy,
First I want to thank you for a great site. I really enjoyed your
e-course as well. Was able to get a lot of helpful information.
Particularly the videos. I have only been vermicomposting since Sept.
And am just about ready to harvest my first batch of castings. Recently
joined vermicomposters.com Anyway just added some photos of my worm farm to
share. So thanks again. Will continue to enjoy your site.
Troy B.
Thank you so
much for posting videos about worm bins. Your videos are great and I've
learned a lot from them.
Karen
Christy,
Thanks I hope that you don't mind but I belong to The Garden Forums website
and there are folks on there that have not heard of you and your love of
worms. I told them that I decided to buy from you because of a video I seen
of you harvesting worms by hand.
Chris M.
Christy,
Did I tell you the worms arrived in good shape and seem to be happy eating
my kitchen scraps?
Jo Ann N.
Hello
Christy,
I received the Worm Factory yesterday on time and in good shape.
I am looking forward to transferring my “herd” from my single-storey bin to
the new multi-level one.
Thank you for the quick service and excellent videos on the web.
Roy R.
Factory is all set up - so once
you have a batch acclimated and ready I am ready for them. Your videos are
warm and wonderful, full of worm love.
John B
My Lanzones
(Lansium domesticum) that has been sitting on my frontyard without any signs
of fruiting for many years, all of a sudden fruited this year after just 2
or 3 months on vermitea and vermicast.
BEN
Christy,
I love your videos and I've learned a lot from watching.
Steve
Hi Christy, I wanted to tell you
how much I enjoyed your pod casts. I just found them by accident. I been
trying to figure this worm thing out for awhile. You did a good job of doing
that. Also, your pod casts were so friendly. I sort of felt like I was
sitting across the table from you.
I can't wait to get the worm tower and get started. Keep up the good
work Christy! your a special person!
Tom P
Hi Christy.
The worms arrived today! I even saw one of the babies when I was looking in
my bin. I couldn't believe how tiny it was. :)
I live in an apartment building so the manager brought the package to my air
conditioned apartment so they were just fine. Although I wonder what she
thought of this box labeled "LIVE WORMS". :)
Thanks again!
Carla
Hi Christy,
Just to let you know I received the 2 lbs. of red worms Thursday, June 5th,
2008. I received them in very good condition and am very happy with them.
I'm using horse manure and they seem to be comfortable with that. I don't
know how long it will take for the castings to appear, or when to harvest as
of yet, but I'm sure that as I keep a close eye on things I will find out.
Thank you very much for such a wonderful product.
Best Regards,
Dave
Received worms yesterday and
they’re real healthy.
Thanks,
Michael
My worms arrived today and they
are in good condition.
Thank you,
Amy
Yes, they arrived on Friday and
they're great. Moving around and eating our veggie and fruit scraps already.
Thank you!
Liz
Christy,
I did receive the worms today and did not see any that were not alive. I
have transferred them to a 10 gallon tub that I modified with holes,
according to the directions. They are all moving and seem to be "happy".
Thank you,
Cathy
The worms arrived alive and
well, and are fast finding a new home.
Jack
Hi Christy.
Worms safely arrived yesterday P.M. While I've no experience or much
knowledge about worms, I'd say they were fat and happy. They've been
enthroned in nice new digs...with much to feast on to welcome their arrival.
Thanks Again. Larry D
Hi Christy,
Just wanted to let you know that we received our worms and they all looked
fat and happy .....even the lil' babies!!
Tape measure, skill saw or
rip hand saw, hammer, saw horses, long straight edge or
chalk snap line, screw driver, chisel, wood glue and drill
with 1/2" bit.
USE
EYE AND EAR PROTECTION
Measure and cut
plywood as indicated in drawing. To make the base, cut the 14' 2 x 4
into five pieces: two 48" and three 20" long. The remaining 12"
piece will be used to make the sides. Nail the 2 x 4s together on
edge with 16d nails at each joint as illustrated in the base frame
diagram. Nail the plywood base piece onto the 2 x 4 frame using the
4d nails.
To build the box,
cut three 12" pieces from 16' 2 x 4. Place a one-foot 2 x 4 under
the end of each side panel so that the 2 x 4 is flush with the top
and side edges of the plywood and nail the boards in place. Nail the
side pieces onto the base frame.
To complete the
box, nail the ends onto the base and sides. To reinforce the box,
place a nail at least every 3 inches wherever plywood and 2 x 4s
meet. Drill twelve 1/2" holes through the bottom of the box for
drainage. Drill two levels of 1/2" holes all around the sides
as illustrated in the pictures above.
To build the lid,
cut the remainder of the 16' 2 x 4 into two 51" lengths and two 27"
pieces. Cut lap joints in the corners, then glue and nail the frame
together. Center the plywood onto the 2 x 4 frame and nail with 4d
nails. Lay the top on the ground with the plywood side touching
ground. Attach hinges to the top and back using short screws on the
top and the long screw on the back. Position hinges so the screws go
through plywood to 2 x 4s.
Coating the inside
with paraffin will help preserve the wood from the moisture
necessary for your worms to thrive. To do that successfully
you will need to heat the paraffin to the point where it sizzles
when you apply it to the wood.
Treat the outside
with clear polyurethane,
varnish, or paint to protect it from weathering.
A worm bin can be made out of any sturdy container
that is preferably no more than 18 inches deep. The worms are a top
feeder and anything deeper will only contribute to a toxic condition at
the lower levels of your worm bin that will not only affect the health
of your worms but will affect the quality of your finished product.
The worm bin needs to be able to accommodate you drilling holes in the
sides for allowing air into the bedding and in the bottom for the
release of excess moisture.
It is also good if the container has some kind of lid to keep out
unwanted light (the worms like it dark) and to help keep the top layer
of material moist.
You will need something to set the worm bin on to collect the excess
moisture that drips from the bottom of the bin.
Here is a picture of one of the ways I handle this problem:
This helps keep the bottom of the worm bin open to fresh
air flow and gives you visual access to your lechate. If you want you
could even put a spout in the container catching the liquid.
Tools and supplies needed to build your worm bin:
THE PLASTIC SMALL IN HOME WORM BIN I USE
FOR 1-2 PEOPLE -
I use a 12 gallon tote with rigid sides and an attached,
interlocking lid. This particular tote was purchased on sale
after the Christmas season for less than $7.00. It is only 1
ft. deep, and is easy to transport even when it is full of bedding
and worms. The attached lid is especially nice if space is an
issue and is able to be propped open on itself if you need to get
additional air circulation if your system starts heating up.
This is a good size for someone who is interested in transporting
their bin for classes.
TOOLS I USE TO BUILD MY BINS -
THE VENTS I USE -
You will need to find vents for your worm bin.
I use 1-3/4" vents. Air is one of the most important aspects
of a healthy bin, so don't skimp on size here to save a few bucks.
You can find a variety of vents like these at a store that caters to
contractors. There are plastic ones that are a little more
expensive. Save money by buying a less expensive vent, just
don't try to save money by trying to not use a vent or by buying a
smaller vent. The smallest I would go with is 1". I have
also used screen buy cutting a piece of hardware cloth, or you can
use screen from an old window screen, and hot glue them over the
hole. I would glue them over the outside to avoid catching the
screen when you work your worm bin. This method is not as
attractive and will not last as long as a metal or plastic vent, but
works just the same. The picture above shown sitting atop a
tub to catch the leachate is a worm bin I built hot gluing screen
over 1" holes. With the smaller holes I drill more holes per
side, top, and bottom than I do if I use the bigger vents.
With the bigger vents you will need a minimum of 12 vents - 2 on
each side, one on each end, two in the top (one per each 1/2 lid),
and two in the bottom. The bottom vents will need to have the
sides cut with the tin snips in order to bend the sides down to
allow the excess moisture to drain out. If you did not do this
there would be a build-up of liquid in the bottom which would leave
the bedding soggy and could create a toxic condition in the bottom
layer of your worm bin.
THE FINISHED WORM BIN -
The vents should be placed towards the bottom of the
worm bin as this is where the air will be needed once you get the
worm bin full of working material and worms.
☼
By clicking on any of the pictures above
you can see an enlarged photo and be able to see more detail.
Generally speaking, the larger the bin the more
forgiving the system is. But if you want to go small, then here
are some samples of some small bins I use to hold my worms after harvest
until I ship. Moving clockwise, the gray one in upper left hand
corner of the picture is a small dish tub. The pink tub next to it
is one of those tubs you get when you stay in the hospital. The
round bin is a tortilla warmer container with a lid pictured next.
Holes are drilled in the lid for air. This small bin can hold 1/2
lb of worms.
READ MORE
Plans are in the works for a series of videos that would take you from start
to finish (so to speak) of how to have your own worm bin composting project.
Once the set-up process was complete the series will continue with the
maintenance of the bin including feeding and harvesting worms and castings.
If you would like to be notified of the release of these videos please fill
out the form below. As always your information is safe with me.
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Sometimes scientists can talk over the layman's head and not even realize
that the message is not being conveyed. This book is written in a very
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about the life producing your food.
Smart gardeners understand that soil is alive and what is in the
soil is what supports plant life. Healthy soil is exploding with life -
beyond the worms and insects we can see with the naked eye - there are a
multitude of bacteria, fungi, and other microbial forms of life vital to the
soil food web that sustains healthy plant life. Resorting to chemicals
destroys this delicate balance and results in an unhealthy situation for the
soil, the plants, and the environment. You can't destroy this balance and
not have an affect on the people, the children, family and friends. As
gardeners, farmers, and inhabitants of the Earth we have an obligation to the
next generation to leave behind a healthy soil. Venture beyond your
current understanding that good soil grows healthy plants and understand
why...This book available now from Amazon.com by clicking on the buy link.
VermiCulture Northwest
6351 N Davenport St
Dalton Gardens, ID 83815
(541) 678-7005 (new phone number)