Do It Yourself Worm Bins can be made of anything that works for you and is not toxic for the worms.

Build Your Own
Wooden Worm Bin

Materials:

1 sheet of 1/2" plywood

1 14" utility 2 x 4

1 16' utility 2 x 4

1 lb. 4d galvanized nails

1/4 lb. 16d galvanized nails

2 3" door hinges

Tools:

Tape measure, skill saw or rip hand saw, hammer, saw horses, long straight edge or chalk snap line, screw driver, chisel, wood glue and drill with 1/2" bit.

USE EYE AND EAR PROTECTION

Measure and cut plywood as indicated in drawing. To make the base, cut the 14' 2 x 4 into five pieces: two 48" and three 20" long. The remaining 12" piece will be used to make the sides. Nail the 2 x 4s together on edge with 16d nails at each joint as illustrated in the base frame diagram. Nail the plywood base piece onto the 2 x 4 frame using the 4d nails.

To build the box, cut three 12" pieces from 16' 2 x 4. Place a one-foot 2 x 4 under the end of each side panel so that the 2 x 4 is flush with the top and side edges of the plywood and nail the boards in place. Nail the side pieces onto the base frame.

To complete the box, nail the ends onto the base and sides. To reinforce the box, place a nail at least every 3 inches wherever plywood and 2 x 4s meet. Drill twelve 1/2" holes through the bottom of the box for drainage. Drill two levels of 1/2" holes all around the sides as illustrated in the pictures above.

To build the lid, cut the remainder of the 16' 2 x 4 into two 51" lengths and two 27" pieces. Cut lap joints in the corners, then glue and nail the frame together. Center the plywood onto the 2 x 4 frame and nail with 4d nails. Lay the top on the ground with the plywood side touching ground. Attach hinges to the top and back using short screws on the top and the long screw on the back. Position hinges so the screws go through plywood to 2 x 4s.

Coating the inside with paraffin will help preserve the wood from the moisture necessary for your worms to thrive. To do that successfully you will need to heat the paraffin to the point where it sizzles when you apply it to the wood.

Treat the outside with clear polyurethane, varnish, or paint to protect it from weathering.

The Plastic Tote Worm Bin:

A worm bin can be made out of any sturdy container that is preferably no more than 18 inches deep. The worms are a top feeder and anything deeper will only contribute to a toxic condition at the lower levels of your worm bin that will not only affect the health of your worms but will affect the quality of your finished product.

The worm bin needs to be able to accommodate you drilling holes in the sides for allowing air into the bedding and in the bottom for the release of excess moisture.

It is also good if the container has some kind of lid to keep out unwanted light (the worms like it dark) and to help keep the top layer of material moist.

You will need something to set the worm bin on to collect the excess moisture that drips from the bottom of the bin.

Here is a picture of one of the ways I handle this problem:

This helps keep the bottom of the worm bin open to fresh air flow and gives you visual access to your lechate. If you want you could even put a spout in the container catching the liquid.

Tools and supplies needed to build your worm bin:

THE PLASTIC SMALL IN HOME WORM BIN I USE FOR 1-2 PEOPLE -

I use a 12 gallon tote with rigid sides and an attached, interlocking lid. This particular tote was purchased on sale after the Christmas season for less than $7.00. It is only 1 ft. deep, and is easy to transport even when it is full of bedding and worms. The attached lid is especially nice if space is an issue and is able to be propped open on itself if you need to get additional air circulation if your system starts heating up. This is a good size for someone who is interested in transporting their bin for classes.

TOOLS I USE TO BUILD MY BINS -

THE VENTS I USE -

You will need to find vents for your worm bin. I use 1-3/4" vents. Air is one of the most important aspects of a healthy bin, so don't skimp on size here to save a few bucks. You can find a variety of vents like these at a store that caters to contractors. There are plastic ones that are a little more expensive. Save money by buying a less expensive vent, just don't try to save money by trying to not use a vent or by buying a smaller vent. The smallest I would go with is 1". I have also used screen buy cutting a piece of hardware cloth, or you can use screen from an old window screen, and hot glue them over the hole. I would glue them over the outside to avoid catching the screen when you work your worm bin. This method is not as attractive and will not last as long as a metal or plastic vent, but works just the same. The picture above shown sitting atop a tub to catch the leachate is a worm bin I built hot gluing screen over 1" holes. With the smaller holes I drill more holes per side, top, and bottom than I do if I use the bigger vents. With the bigger vents you will need a minimum of 12 vents - 2 on each side, one on each end, two in the top (one per each 1/2 lid), and two in the bottom. The bottom vents will need to have the sides cut with the tin snips in order to bend the sides down to allow the excess moisture to drain out. If you did not do this there would be a build-up of liquid in the bottom which would leave the bedding soggy and could create a toxic condition in the bottom layer of your worm bin.

THE FINISHED WORM BIN -

The vents should be placed towards the bottom of the worm bin as this is where the air will be needed once you get the worm bin full of working material and worms.

☼ By clicking on any of the pictures above
you can see an enlarged photo and be able to see more detail.

Mini-Worm Bins

Generally speaking, the larger the bin the more forgiving the system is. But if you want to go small, then here are some samples of some small bins I use to hold my worms after harvest until I ship. Moving clockwise, the gray one in upper left hand corner of the picture is a small dish tub. The pink tub next to it is one of those tubs you get when you stay in the hospital. The round bin is a tortilla warmer container with a lid pictured next. Holes are drilled in the lid for air. This small bin can hold 1/2 lb of worms. READ MORE

Other Examples of Worm Composting Bins

4' x 8' fiberglass bin

This is a plastic barrel cut in half lengthwise

I have recently been asked about my fiberglass worm bins. These bins are not any better or worse than any other bin of choice. The main thing about worm composting bins is that it fits YOUR needs. Size and material is completely up to you depending on your goals. The other consideration is of course the worms. Choose nothing toxic to your worms! They will die!!

Are you just wanting to compost your organic waste? Good for you! This material should not be thrown out to be buried in a landfill.

You must first decide how much waste you produce on an average. If you are heavy veggie eaters or you juice you will have more waste volume to handle and will need a bigger bin.

Are you a gardener interested in producing soil amendment to help improve soil and help fight disease and pests? Then you will need a bigger bin as well.

A Worm Farm

1x2x3 Wooden Worm Bin

The Plastic Tote Worm Bin

Mini-Worm Bin

Other examples